If you are new to the world of Nitro cars and trucks
then we suggest that you look through our guide lines and helpfull tips
What To Check Before Using Your Nitro Car
Before using any nitro model it is very important that you check the following:
1) Receiver Battery is fully charged
2) Range check (Stand a distance away from the model and make sure it is responding to the radio control correctly. Ideally do this with someone else so you can stand as far away as you want to use the model.
3) Transmitter Battery is fully charged
4) Glow Plug is tight and glow start is fully charged
5) Ensure engine flywheel is tight and tighten if needed
6) Loctite and tighten any loose nuts, screws or bolts
7) Clutch-bell and Spur Gear mesh is correct or you will strip the gears
8) Nylon cable ties for exhaust are tight
9) Clean & Re-Oil or replace Foam Air Filter element if needed
10) Ensure all servo linkages are straight and in proper alignment when the radio equipment is turned on. Adjust if needed.
11) Ensure fuel system is free of obstruction, line pinches, dirt & leaks
12) Clean entire car after every tank
The above maintenance should be carried out ideally after every run.
The main engine adjustment screw would have been pre-set at the factory.
In 99% of cases this screw will not need touching until after you have run the engine in, if you wish to fine tune it.
A good starting point, try 3 turns out on the bottom end needle and 4 turns out on the large top end needle screw then tune from there.
How To Use The Glow Starter
A glow starter is a tool that you will need to start your engine.
With simple finger pressure it locks on and off the glow plug.
When the glow starter is attached to the glow plug (located in the cylinder head of your engine) the wire coil on the other side of the glow plug glows to ignite the fuel in your engine.
How To Use
1) Before using for the first time you will need to charge your glow starter.
2) To charge (in the same way you would attach the glow starter to the glow plug) insert the nut shaped charging end into the locking socket of the glow starter.
Finally, plug the charger into the wall socket.
Charging time will be displayed on the charger packaging.
Do Not twist the charging end in the glow starter at an angle as this will cause a short and your glow starter will not be covered under your warranty.
3) To lock the glow starter onto your glow plug all you need to do is place the glow starter over the glow plug
and add gentle pressure pushing down with your palm and twist.
You should feel the glow started fixed onto the glow plug and the voltage meter should be registering a reading.
4) You engine is now ready for starting
Hints
1) Be careful never to leave your glow starter attached for any long lengths of time.
If you are struggling to get your engine started don’t leave the glow starter on take it off to give the glow start and glow plug a break and then try again.
2) If you suspect your glow plug or glow start is not working then you can check this by unscrewing the glow plug and attaching it to your charged glow starter
to see if the wire on the opposite end of the glow plug lights up.
If it does then you know there both fine but if it doesn’t then either the glow plug, glow starter or charger is not working.
How To Start A Nitro Engine
1) Fill the fuel Tank and check that the fuel pipes are secure, clean and free of kinks to ensure clear fuel flow.
2) Prime the engine with fuel by putting your finger over the exhaust or air intake and then pulling the starter until you see the fuel reach the engine. Once you see the fuel reach the engine pull the starter another couple of times to spread fuel through the engine. If it will not prime make sure all the screws around the engine and manifold are tight and that the lid on the fuel tank is closed. If it still will not prime take the end of the fuel line that connects to the exhaust off and blow down it which should force fuel into the engine.
3) Attach your glow start to the glow plug (located on top of the engine cooling head)
4) Pull the recoil starter with short quick jabs. Avoid pulling the recoil cord 100% of its length as this will damage the starting spring, and this is not covered by the motor’s warranty. If the pull start becomes very hard to pull then it means the engine is flooded. In this case you must NOT pull the start again until you have un-flooded the engine otherwise it will break. If the engine is cold you may need to open the throttle a TINY bit just to help it start. If the engine is cold you may need to pull the start a good few times, the trick is to pull it quickly and consistently. If it is still stiff try unscrewing the glow plug half a turn and then when it starts tighten it up again.
5) If the engine settings are correct the engine should start. Disconnect the glow clip as soon as the engine is running.
Note: Its not uncommon for the engine to stall when you have removed the glow plug, if it does this reattach the glow plug and restart.
The main needle adjustment is used to adjust the fuel to air mixture when you are accelerating. Once the engine is run in, if it is spitting fuel from the exhaust you may want to turn the adjustment screw a little clockwise just a mm or so. Do not over tighten it though as this will overheat the engine and could melt the parts. When you make a change to the adjustment screw the changes will not take effect until after a couple of minutes running.
If it does not start please see our information section on what to do if your engine does not start.
Tips If You Cannot Start The Engine
It is very unusual that a fault can be traced back to the engine. Check the following points below before considering the engine to be faulty.
1) Check the flywheel is not loose. You should not be able to turn the flywheel without also turning the engine.
If the flywheel is loose you will need to tighten the flywheel bolt.
If the flywheel is loose the engine will usually start but then cut out straight away.
2) Do the wheels turn when you pull the starter? If so the clutch shoes may have melted and will need replacing.
3) Has the Glow Plug burned out? Remove the glow plug and check if it is glowing.
You can do this by attaching the glow plug to the glow start directly and the coil in the bottom of the glow plug should glow bright red in a matter of seconds.
Engines will not start if the glow plug is dim or not glowing at all.
If the glow plug isn’t working it will need replacing.
4) Is the recoil starter hard to pull? If the recoil starter is hard to pull this means that the engine is flooded (there is too much fuel in the combustion chamber).
At this point don't pull the recoil starter any more - doing so will damage the recoil spring. Or break the pull cord.
Any misuse of the recoil starter unit will void the manufacturer’s warranty.
To solve remove the glow plug from the heat sink head and turn the car upside down. Now pull the recoil starter a few times to expel the excess fuel out of the combustion chamber. Replace the glow plug and start again.
5) Does the car start, but stalls when the glow clip is removed? If this happens it’s a possibility that the car is idling too low.
To solve, look down at the carburetor from above. It should be all but closed, with just a 1 to 2 mm gap to allow the air in.
The idle setting can be changed by turning the idle screw in or out. (The idle screw is generally located right next to the carburetor barrel)
6) If the engine feels tight when you pull the pull start try undoing the glow plug just a tiny bit which will release some of the pressure
and then when the engine starts you can tighten it back up.
7) Make sure you have primed the engine with fuel correctly and enough. It will not start if there is not enough fuel in the engine and it will not start if there is too much.
How To Run In A New Engine
To ensure the long life and performance of your engine ‘running in’ properly is very important! Not doing so will shorten the life and reduce the overall performance of your engine.
To run your engine in, take your car and roll it back and forth to be certain the car’s wheels can turn freely. Place the car in a position so that the wheels are off the ground, for example on a heavy box, and follow the starting procedure as above.
The engine should be broken-in on a smooth hard surface where it will not be put under any excessive strain. Try to avoid breaking-in the engine on very hot, or humid days. Ensure that the idle speed is not too high or else you will burn your clutch out or snap the con rod, and also make sure that the brake is not applied.
Always break-in your engine without the body on the car, you want as much airflow as you can get to keep the engine cool. Do not run the engine too lean or you will over heat it and cause permanent damage to the internal components of the engine.
It is normal for the engine to consume a lot of fuel during break-in. This is because you are running it "richer" than you normally would to keep the engine cool and to flush out the engine as the parts "seat" themselves. Because of the richer than normal setting the performance of the engine will be limited. After break-in, you will then lean it out to gain performance.
It's always a good idea to get an extra glow plug. It is normal to have to replace it after break-in because of the deposits left on in from the break-in process. Glow plugs are a normal item that needs replacing. Because they have such a huge influence on the way your engine runs it best to always have a few spares.
Once the engine starts and is idling slowly place it on the ground and drive it slowly on a flat surface. For the first use do not let the engine run for more then 3 minutes. Carry on running slowly for short periods until you have gone through 2 - 3 tanks of fuel.
Do not over accelerate at all during this procedure, as it can severely damage the engine. After each idling time, let the car rest for about 10 minutes between each tank. Running in makes sure that the engine is operating correctly before you take it out for a proper run.
Never accelerate the engine while all four wheels are off the ground, as this will break the conrod or other important components.
One important thing to remember when breaking in a new engine, it may appear to not run correctly. It may stall, operate very inconsistently, and may even foul glow plugs. Don't get frustrated with it. Just keep working with it and it will become a smooth running engine.
Nitro Car FAQ's
Q. What else do I need to run the model?
A. All our RTR (ready to run) models come with the radio control and servos included and installed.
All you will need is some model glow fuel and a standard glow starter and batteries.
Q. How long does the fuel last?
A. A tank of fuel will last up to 10 mins on some larger models and 5 - 7 mins on the smaller ones.
Q. Why did my con rod break?
A. The only way that a con rod can break is either the engine is revved with no load
or there is not enough fuel in the engine so there is not enough lubrication which causes the piston to jam.
You should be careful not to rev the engine if the wheels are off the ground, if the flywheel is loose or if the model does a jump.
Con rods are not covered by the warranty but available as a spare part.
Q. Why do my wheels turn when I pull the pull start?
A. If you are unable to pull the pull start without the wheels turning it means your clutch shoes have probably melted.
This happens when the car has been incorrectly adjusted so that the brake is slightly on when the throttle is in the neutral position.
They can also melt if the wheels or truck is held still while the engine is revving or if the idle speed is too high.
If this happens you will simply need to purchase a new clutch shoe and replace the melted one.
Q. Why did my gears strip?
A. Stripping a spur gear (a flat spot on the plastic gear that turns the drive train of the car) is not caused by the spur gear or pinion gear.
A stripped spur gear is caused by the pinion gear not having the correct mesh with the spur gear.
Q. How can I get correct gear mesh?
A. The easiest way to learn that you have the correct gear mesh is to use a piece of paper
and fit it between the spur gear and pinion gear as you tighten the motor mount screws.
After the motor is completely tightened, the piece of paper should be impossible to remove except by turning the spur gear to rotate the paper out of place.
With the paper gone, turn the spur gear with a finger and feel the amount of movement or "play" there is between the spur gear and pinion gear.
There should be very little play, but you should feel a little bit.
This is the correct gear mesh. With practice, you will no longer strip any spur gears.
Make sure the motor mount screws are very tight, a big crash could move the motor towards or away from the spur gear, making the spur gear strip out.
Q. Why did my flywheel wear away?
A. If the bolt holding the flywheel on is not tight and you continue to use the car it will start to wear the flywheel away.
You should check that the flywheel is tight before each run.
Q. Do you need a license to use a nitro RC car?
A. No you do not. Just use common sense and do not use them where they may disturb, injure people or cause damage to property.
Q. What ages are nitro radio controlled cars recommended for?
A. We recommend 14+. A younger child would be able to drive them but may struggle with the setup and maintenance.
Q. What kind of range does it have?
A. About 30 to 50m's depending on battery strength and radio quality. There is no point in risking a greater distance as you won't be able to see the car.
You should always do a range check before use.
Q. How do I stop the engine?
A. Block up the exhaust outlet but use a rag as this gets hot !!
Q. What fuel Do I use?
A. Nitro cars need to use model glow fuel and not petrol.
You should use a good branded fuel with a nitro content of 10% to 25%.
For 1/10 scale cars or any engine up to a .18 size, we recommend that you use no higher than 16% nitro, regardless of what the " BOOK" says.
For 1/8 scale or .21 engines and bigger you need to use 25% nitro fuel
The higher percentage of Nitro will increase the speed but it is more expensive and can cause more wear to the engine.
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